Creamy texture, high concentration of active ingredients: the mask is all good but is often accused of saturating the hair. " Yet, it protects the fiber, prevents it from tarnishing and spoiling," says Olivier Lebrun, hairdresser-creator for Garnier Fructis. A deep ultimate care (while conditioning only detangles) that requires making the right choice and taking your time.
- Hair mask: targeting the right formula
" One chooses it according to the dryness and the thickness of the hair, explains Hélène Letourneur-Maniatis, hairdresser-colorist at Jean-François Lazartigue.If a shea mask is suitable for damaged lengths, it risks overloading a fine fiber. "
To know his "hair typology" and offer him the right assets, one wraps a hair around the finger. Barely visible ? The hair is fine. Otherwise, their structure is normal or thick.
The choice of VB: Olive oil , avocado and shea to repair very dry hair: Oleo Intense Nutri-Repair Ultra-Nutritive Rich Mask by Garnier Fructis. To strengthen fine hair: JF Lazartigue Fortifying Soothing Milk Fortifying Mask. For afros hair very damaged by chemical treatments: Magic Mask Sandrine Jeanne-Rose.
- Hair mask: spinning the fiber
To prevent the assets from "telescoping" with those of the shampoo, apply its mask on rinsed hair. " The fiber must" creak "between the fingers, sign that the cleansing formula has disappeared," insists Mathieu Guignaudeau, hairdresser studio. It is then sponge towel: too much water dilutes the product, so limits its action.
- Hair mask: take the right dose
Between two and four hazelnuts, no more. " The fiber should look wet, as if wrapped in a light film.If it is creamy or whitish, there is too much," says Mathieu Guignaudeau.
- Hair mask: do not touch the scalp
We apply his mask only on the mid-lengths. If you want to treat the hair at the root, we choose a specific mask, purifying (propolis jelly, clay) or calming (peppermint, glycerin).
The choice of VB: To rebalance the scalp: Nuage de Mousse Purifying Mask of Carita. Its D-panthenol soothes irritations: Bioderma Node A Soothing Concentrate Mask.
- Hair mask: brush the material
With a comb in tortoiseshell or horn to distribute the texture. The plastic, abrasive, "breaks" the fiber.
- Hair mask: massage the texture
The formula is penetrated by wick massage between thumb and forefinger. Until the fiber drinks the assets.
- Hair mask: take your time
We abandon the express formulas. Their silicones that coat the hair to smooth in one minute tend to weigh it down. We prefer the care we let for 30 minutes.
The choice of VB: Keratin to moisturize dry hair : Nourishing Hair Building Pak Naturaltech Davines. A formula that revitalizes colored hair: Dove Regenerating Color Care Mask. To rebuild the most damaged parts: Absolute Mask Reconstructive Total Repair Extreme Elsève of L'Oréal Paris.
- Hair mask: using heat as a catalyst
It is allowed to put its mask under a cellophane film or a warm towel but not wet (to avoid diluting the product): by opening the scales, heat promotes the penetration of assets.
- Hair mask: rinse thoroughly
This is the most important step: dust and residue cling faster on poorly cleaned fiber. It is rinsed by emulsifying its mask like a shampoo. " To finish lightening, we use a rinsing vinegar whose acidic pH closes the scales," advises hairdresser David Lucas.
The choice of VB: It eliminates the last residues: Fioravanti Shine Vinegar of Furterer. A few drops on dried hair before rinsing: Phytocidre Rinse Vinegar Phyto.
- Hair mask: finish with a shampoo
For fine or damaged hair, a few drops of shampoo in the rinse water remove all traces of texture and aerate the hair.
The choice of VB: A gentle cleansing base that does not weigh down: Ducray Dermo-Protective Extra-Gentle Shampoo. A balanced pH formula: Frequent Use Shampoo from Cattier.
- Hair mask: 4 express questions
At what frequency ? Once a week for dry hair, every two weeks for others. Before or after the shampoo? Before, when one has fine hair. The fiber does not need to be soaked: just spray a little water on the lengths. Once washed, the hair will be lighter. After, when you have very dry hair.
What about "all in one" formulas (both condition, mask, anti-frizz, etc.)? They are used only in troubleshooting: they tend to weigh down the fiber of superfluous assets. Dry or not? Yes, but with a less warm air than usual to preserve the shine.
