If the mythical Eau de Cologne by Jean Marie Farina always keeps its fans, contemporary Colognes dare to combine flowers, fruits, wood, for a real wake. And if their composition contains 5% to 20% of essential oils perfumers redouble inventiveness to seduce all those who are in search of authenticity and purity.
Cologne, a miraculous water, between medicine and perfume
"L'Eau de Cologne was invented by an Italian based in Cologne, Giovanni Paolo Féminis," says Elisabeth de Feydeau, a Perfume historian whose latest book, "Le Roman des Guerlain", was published by Flammarion. It arrives in France in 1760 and is marketed to Apothecaries. Composed of Spirit of wine, rosemary, lemon balm, neroli, cedar ... it is more medicine than olfactory refinement! We can rub it as well as pour it into his soup. People, including the very hypochondriac Louis XV, use it for its invigorating virtues . Not useless either to hide the miasma and the nauseous smell ...
It is in 1806 that the brand name "Eau de Cologne" is deposited by Jean Marie Farina successor of Feminis. His most famous client is of course Napoleon who uses for his invigorating frictions near a bottle a day and even drinks a few drops before each battle!
In the nineteenth century, industrialization made it possible to make cologne a universal product, a classic where each perfumer now adds his personal note: amber, leather, lavender.
If, in the 1960s, Cologne was relegated to the rank of aged, in the 2000s it became a trend again, and even more so today. It is a genuine, healthy product and all the more attractive as perfumers now make it into true olfactory compositions.
Contemporary Colognes with a Concentrated Wake
The trend is unanimous: after scents with powerful notes, women are turning today to the new Colognes. More sophisticated, often more concentrated, they are explained by a quest for naturalness, authenticity.
In these modern compositions, known as "long lasting", the perfumer escapes without complex from the classic trilogy bergamot, lemon, orange blossom, to invent genuine often surprising perfume harmonies. But all of them appeal to the generosity of a splash of well-being and happiness. A real art of living.
One of the first to have taken the plunge in 2000 is Alberto Morillas with Mugler's Cologne. There are the classics hesperidated but rafraichis cut grass that warm in the background the sensuality of the musks. Now the obligatory work of a perfumer, the Colognes are today signed of the biggest names: Colognes of Dior, Chanel, Hermès ...
A Cologne for every state of soul
The choice of the Colognes is so vast that it can rhythm every moment of our life. So to decline according to our mood and our desires.
- For a happy awakening
Eau de Rhubarbe Ecarlate, Hermes : to bring a cheerful freshness Christine Nagel replaced the hesperides by the green and crisp notes of rhubarb discretely acidulated and velvety white musks.
Cologne For Francis Kurkdjian's Morning : a cozy pillow sensation from which rise lemon (bergamot, lemon) and aromatic notes (thyme, lavender) for a soft and cool wake.
- To change horizon
Lemon d'Erable, Atelier Cologne : for a breakaway in Canada Christophe Cervasel wanted the tender notes of maple syrup, the warm and reassuring notes of redwood and cedar wood to be illuminated by the freshness of the lemon from Sicily.
Fleur de figuier, Roger and Gallet : this fresh and gourmet harmony was composed by Francis Kurkdjian to generously spray mandarin and grapefruit spiced cara on the warm and milky accord of the cedar and musk woods.
- To reconnect with tradition
Acqua di Parma Colonia : true scent cult created in Parma in 1916 it did not take a wrinkle. Its composition was already surprisingly modern, with the solar presence of the citrus fruits of Sicily audaciously associated with the aromatic accents of verbena, rosemary, to blend in the warm notes of vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli.
Cologne Royale by Dior : François Demachy wanted the most noble raw materials to create an exceptional, unique creation, not retreating before a touch of audacity: explosion of the bergamots of Sicily, "concentrated lemon" exclusive Dior and, for the round, Neroli of Calabria on an unexpected background: a touch of spearmint.
- To stay Zen
Bamboo Rose, Aerin Rose Cologne : the mixture of green floral notes and roses calls for the serenity of an Asian garden. The bergamot of Sicily and the mandarin flower surrounded by jasmine petals and bathed in the infusion of pink centifolia soften on a background of amber and musk.
Savoy Steam, Penhaligon's : like a veritable fragrant steam a delicious mist of eucalyptus softened with rosemary, blossoms in a beneficial, soothing cloud of balsam fir, resin and incense.
- For a little tenderness
Eau de Cologne, the Exclusives of Chanel : the noblest hesperides, bergamot, mandarin, blend in the sweetness of neroli, jasmine, musks for a light floral trail, light and reassuring, as innocent pleasures.
Well-being, the Herbalist Eau de Nuit : the combination of the freshness of lavender and chamomile with the enveloping, comforting notes of musk and sandalwood leave a soft wake and cocoon.
- To exalt my femininity
Cologne Indélébile, Dominique Ropion, Frédéric Malle : an astonishing wake, a sensation of freshness of the absolute narcissus, a clean impression developed by white musks, then a carnal smell of orange blossom for an infinitely sexy wake.
The Cologne of the Perfumer, Guerlain : not easy in the temple of Colognes to create a new proposal. Exercise by Thierry Wasser for this great classic with a modern twist. Of course, the citrus fruits are there, lemon, bergamot, but the orange flower, sweet but with a green side, crisp, makes all the difference for this cologne, refreshing. One likes to sprinkle it in the morning leaves, like its creator to mix a few drops of its true perfume in the course of its moods for an intimate sensuality.
* Thanks to Elisabeth de Feydeau, Perfume Historian (last book Le Roman des Guerlain, Flammarion), Christine Nagel, Creator Parfumeur at Hermès, Francis Kurkdjian, Maison Francis Kurkdjian and Christophe Cervasel, creator of Atelier Cologne.
