Pink line
The red wave of winter has mutated into pink, which makes a brisk entry into the summer locker room. Intense, deep, often fuchsia, sometimes sweet. It requires monochrome, like a jet of paint. If its supports are strong - leather (Bottega Veneta), suede (Courreges), Spandex (Balenciaga) - the silhouettes are minimalist and the noble mood: draped, capes, marked sizes and knee length counterbalance the color and its tonitruance.
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New trench
If he does not leave the parades, the trench has the kindness to reinvent itself. In a surrealist collage effect, the row of buttons adorn the bias hem at Michael Kors Collection. At Marni, wallets are grafted to the hips and Joseph makes a skirt a mac, evoking the deconstruction-reconstruction dear to Margiela. The hour is at the turning of the classics, the bursting of a salutary dissonance on a familiar partition.
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It's clear
The skirt fades, while keeping its place. By a daring transparency effect, it reveals the legs, announces the flesh. An effrontery brought back into the field of graceful romanticism by the refinement of materials. Delicately perforated at Alexander McQueen, in muslin embroidered at Valentino or evoking the fluid tutu of a dancer at Dior. The art of stripping the body while pretending to suggest it.
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Yellow Alert
A game equal with pink, yellow is the other cardinal color of the season. Playful, playful, inevitably solar, he departs from a first degree blissfully vitaminized to embrace more complexity. In the Middle Ages, the hue, a sign of treachery and falsehood, was hated. Embracing his share of shadow today, he gains in density: ascetic and obscured at Acne Studios, fetish at Bottega Veneta, quasi-Gothic at Rick Owens, ironic at Gucci.
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Shoulders
To take space, to increase the presence of the body in space, the square shoulders evoke the "power dressing" of the 80s, but without the theatricality of a disproportionate build. It is no longer a question of singing men. Today, an enlarged shoulder, imposing, graphically claims a territory and quietly asserts a power. Another asset of this angular silhouette: it is towards the face that polarizes the look.
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Leggings raging
The leggings have nothing basic. These silhouette extenders become a field of experimentation. Split of a transparent veil at Max Mara, they wear the golden embroidery of the officer at Louis Vuitton. Glenn Martens sophisticated to the extreme for Y / Project: velvet magenta, pleated on the thighs, surmounted by a side pocket and perfect of a knot. The tapered and sporty line now prefers the baroque to simplicity.
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Shirt Effects
The man's shirt passes to the mill of the creators who amuse themselves to invent new destinies for him. Here a dress patched up where two sleeves hang at the hips (Joseph), there a crop top (Alexander Wang). In Y / Project, it becomes its own antithesis, moving from the masculine attribute to the female archetype that is encamped in a corset with puffed sleeves. Apt to question what is taken for granted, here is a fashion that reflects.
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The spirit of openness
Strategic openings structure the body and give it a nervous modernity. So many breakthroughs that attest to the precision of the cut. In 1983, Yohji Yamamoto already found sweaters and opened slits on wide skirts. The gaps of today are distinguished by their proximity to the body. At Louis Vuitton, two empty triangles, on the shoulder and on the opposite hip, suggest a surgical mastery of sensuality. Here, absence is always right.
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Flowers of Evil
The girls in bloom are black, and it suits them. Dark colors, muted, orange (Balenciaga), beige (Chloé), pale pink (Coach 1941), and black (Dolce & Gabbana). Field parties give way to the taciturn poetry of bitumen. More realistic, less angelic, sometimes Gothic, these flowers confuse in that they do not deliver the expected speech.
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The choice of words
Fashion is made graphomane this season. Troubled times seem to make us want to open it, at least to write it. To demand "Silence" (Haider Ackermann), a feminist start (Dior), claim animal protection (Stella McCartney) or an arty bias. Chitose Abe at Sacai thus reverses the phrase of Joe Strummer "Passion is a fashion" to ensure "Fashion is a passion". If anyone doubted it.
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Make tapestry
An eye in the retro, a corner smile. The prints glance on the wallpaper of the 70s. These repetitive geometric shapes with warm colors embody, since they left the salons-TV, the paroxysm of the kitsch. Tied with grandpa's waistcoat, back too (Prada, Miu Miu). Playing on the nostalgic irony and the tendency to the beautiful-ugly, these tonic motives agitate the sense of the second degree against a backdrop of shared memories.
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Pleated Miyake
Developed by the Japanese designer Issey Miyake in the early 90s, this tight pleated, light and wrinkle-free design is widely acclaimed this summer. To leave him the place to express his character, the dresses end under the knee (Loewe, Wanda Nylon). Soft and sculptural, it accompanies the structured shoulder of a shoulder (Jil Sander, Marni). Ribbed, he gives the costume of Haider Ackermann the emotion of the fault.
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Magic Night
Present for some seasons, lamé and spangles continue their project "a lighthouse in the night", to be worn by day too. This summer, the sequins go to color (purple at Nina Ricci) and play the length. The crumpled effect (Isabel Marant, Kenzo) resurrects an energetic futurism, between Berlin party, Studio 54 and space conquest. A desire to combine the light with the movement that sounds like a drive of optimism.
Credit: Imaxtree / Daniele Oberrauch / DR
