An exfoliating lotion that stings, an anti-age care that brings redness, a care oil that causes stains. Their common point? These products contain assets that are strongly discouraged in the sun.
Lionel de Benetti, a scientist and cosmetologist, explains what must be forbidden in the sun.
Fruit acids and retinol anti-wrinkle: to forget!
This is not the time to weaken the protective potential of the skin. Fruit acids (glycolic, lactic, citric ...) that aim to lighten the skin, to exfoliate more or less slightly, make the stratum corneum more vulnerable. To ban therefore in the day and to avoid also the evening time of the holidays in the sun.
Retinol, this essential Vitamin A derivative, works wonders to fight wrinkles by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, smoothing the skin, lightening the complexion. Yet we will have to abandon it, in the day at least, because it raises our skin making it more sensitive to stress caused by UV and may also cause stains.
Beware of essential oils and perfumes
Some molecules increase the sensitivity of the skin to the sun and can cause stains, irritation and even real burns.
The most common are essential oils. Let's look at the formulas of our care because these HE's sometimes hide in unsuspected products for the face as for the body.
As for the perfumes, long accused of displaying spots, they saw for the most part their composition revised by perfumers who removed the photosensitizing substances, such as bergaptenes. It is better, however, to be cautious: reserve perfumes and scented creams at summer evenings rather than at the ceiling.
Attention also to some care containing plant extracts rich in furocoumarines (citrus, St. John's wort geranium, fig tree) or cinnamon and also some deodorants based on triclosan.
Last precaution: some medicines can also be photosensitizers. Read their instructions and if in doubt ask our pharmacist.
When cosmetic assets lose their power in the sun ...
On the other hand, certain molecules are not dangerous in the sun but lose their effectiveness. For a moment, let us drop our Vitamin C serum, which is stable neither in light nor in heat.
Let's also forget some enzymes that are useful for fighting against free radicals: catalase, SOD, which also do not resist heat or UV. We'll meet them at the beginning of the school year.
* www.lovebeautypeople
