This winter, no half-measure, the small world of the hairstyle is radicalized: contrasts of color frankly, unstructured cuts, increasingly sophisticated hairstyles ... Without following Charlotte Free or Alice Dellal fashionist, the temptation is to appropriate these new codes. But there are risks involved. "A part of the clientele in my living room is evolving in the fashion world," says Delphine Courteille, a very courted studio hairdresser and director of Studio 34 *, in a smile. So I used to manage real "drama" with my team. "She shows us the way with three examples of failures that are amply catch-up ... provided we have the right reflexes.
- I use styling products
By dint of well-clad buns, swollen brushings and other ultra-glossy ponytails, the hair, even after a shampoo, no longer find their nerve and their spring. "The abuse of styling and thermoprotective products, stuffed with silicones and fixing agents, ends up smothering the fiber, explains Delphine. The trick is to offer to his hair, as one would for his skin, a good detox scrub. "It also works in the case of a Brazilian smoothing: brilliant to smooth the fiber and tame the frizz, it still has an unfortunate tendency to flatten the roots and make the hair soft. "Take a special exfoliating scalp formula to eliminate residues accumulated on the roots," concludes Delphine Courteille.
The choice of VB: Redken Nature's Rescue Shine Cream, Carita High Caress Scalp Revitalizing Scrub.
- I missed my tie and dye
"This is the trend of the moment, everyone claims it, immediately announces Delphine. But, on a hair already sensitized or, on the contrary, that has never been discolored, beware of the bad surprises! Tie and dye is an upside-down sweep: instead of starting roots, spikes are discolored to mid-length with an oxidizing product. The aim being that the application be fine and regular in order to obtain a so-called shaded melted result, with the most natural horizontal demarcation possible. " The risk is to end with tips that are really too clear or a striped effect totally nerdy, " says the hairdresser. To rectify the shot, she has a secret weapon: the repigmenting mask. "It is applied to the tips and lengths, dry, kneaded well and allowed to stand for 30 minutes. With a shade close to its base, you will darken the areas too light to reduce the contrast. With an iridescent shade for blonde hair, on the contrary, it will accentuate the clear points and extend their brilliance. "
The choice of VB: Chroma Care, L'Oreal Professional Apricot Oil Color Refill, nine shades, Revlon Professional Nutri Color Cream, fifteen shades, Hip Ultra Chestnut Mask.
- My coloring is too flashy
You wanted a pink pastel: it's ruby; you dreamed of an auburn patina to the Lana Del Rey: it became a mahogany Miss France. In short, there was a missed dose and / or exposure time. Do not panic ! "Instead of recolouring right away, what will make the hair more sensitive, is better to adopt a clarifying or purifying shampoo, tough surfactant, to remove excess pigments and wash out the color faster," says Delphine Courteille. It will be used instead of its usual product, with particular emphasis on the temples, which tend to "drink" a lot of pigments. Be careful, however, to compensate with very nourishing care on the lengths: these washing formulas are more aggressive for the fiber than the "normal" shampoos.
The choice of VB: Purifying Shampoo with Garnier's Soft Clay and Garnier Ultra Soft Citron, Respect Saint-Algue Professional Shampoo, Clarifying Shampoo with Chamomile and Christophe Robin's Blueberry.
- Cut too short
They are called Fastrack and are sold in salons by the Great Lengths group. Provided in more than twenty colors, these strips of hair to cut to the desired length propose a new adhesive gel system: it activates via the heat of the friction between the fingers and the skull to intuitively insert between two wicks existing, without glue point, staples or excessive traction on the hair. "These extensions have bluffed me," says the studio dressing-room Delphine Courteille. They are great to thicken a fringe too thin or to catch a gradient a bit extreme. »Information on 01 55 35 99 66 and on www.greatlengths.fr.
* 34, rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris I, tel. 01 47 03 35 35.
