What is vanilla?

Vanilla is a spice, the fruit of a tropical orchid native to Latin America. Arriving in Europe in the 16th century, it was quickly used by perfumers of the time, who appreciate the complexity of its aromas and the power of its perfume. In perfumery, vanilla is mainly used in the form of oleoresin, a thick liquid derived from pod maceration in alcohol. It is used not only for its rich and powerful perfume, but also as a perfume fixer, because it is very persistent; which is why it is often found in many different fragrances. It also serves to make the scents more round, to "sweeten" them, as the perfumers say.

Vanilla, the star of perfumery from yesterday to today

Vanilla is the star ingredient of many perfumes, some of which are very famous. One of the first, "Jicky", created in 1889 by Aimé Guerlain, uses synthetic vanillin. The word "Guerlinade" will even be created to designate the bases containing vanilla used in the composition of perfumes. The perfumer François Coty also uses the spice widely, in particular in "L'Oregano" or "Antique Amber", two perfumes launched at the beginning of the 20th century. But it is especially "Shalimar", from the same Guerlain, who launches the fashion of oriental perfumes, and thus that of vanilla, in 1925. It is also found in "N ° 5" and "Wood of the islands" of Chanel, "Pour un homme" by Caron ... After falling into oblivion, she made her return in the 1970s with "Opium" by Yves Saint Laurent. In 2007, Guerlain went even further, leaving "Spirited Double Vanilla". Kenzo also sublimates the aroma in "Kenzo Amour", and Dior in "Hypnotic Poison". Far from being reserved for women, vanilla is also present in many masculine fragrances, from "L'Instant pour homme" and "Habit rouge" by Guerlain to "Obsession for Men" by Calvin Klein, of Givenchy or "Boss Bottled" by Hugo Boss ...