To each his dark circles: they are bluish, purplish, rosy; whether they stand under the eyes or that they are hollow, dark circles differ from one person to another. Which involves makeup and specific care depending on their nature.
1- Determine the type of dark circles to choose the texture and coverage of the concealer
Julien Michelet, color specialist and head of training Clinique recommends choosing a fluid texture and fine for the light ring (usually bluish or pink). "For the pronounced ring, brown and installed in particular, we use a cream texture and / or stick golden, so based on orange pigment, which will have more holding and coverage".
Julia Knafo, Training Manager Bobbi Brown agrees and advises using a concealer texture cream "when you want more coverage". In contrast, the lighter rings can be hidden with a concealer that is in the form of serum, whose formulation is more fluid. "The advantage is that it does not mark the details of the eye area, " she says.
Patrick Lorentz, professional makeup artist Estée Lauder nevertheless warns: the concealer is a product to use sparingly. "Since the concealer is more covering than a foundation, you have to be careful of the dosage, not to put too much, so that it does not have a plaster effect." This would have the effect of accentuating the tired air.
2- Take into account the color of dark circles to choose the right concealer
In addition to the nature of the ring, light or hollow, it is also necessary to take into account the main color of its ring to adapt its choice of concealer.
According to Julien Michelet, "you have to look at its ring and define its main color". Namely that a pink (red) concealer will be suitable for a bluish ring and that a beige (yellow based) concealer will perfectly match a pink, red or even purple ring. According to the specialist, "these colors are opposed to each other and will cancel each other out as if by magic." It is generally necessary to illuminate the area surrounded by taking both the good tone and one or two shades lighter than the rest complexion.
Attention, this technique does not apply to the camouflage of imperfections or pigment spots, since it will then be the same intensity as the rest of the face, otherwise we will highlight what we want to hide ".
Sayings confirmed by Julia Knafo, who states that "the right concealer is the one you can wear without a foundation ". She adds, however, that it is important to apply a color concealer with colored rings, in order to "neutralize the color of the ring, lifter and give shine." Rose (bisque) when dark circles are bluish and peach ( peach) when dark circles are brown ".
3- The right actions to apply its concealer
As for its application, the concealer can be worn under or on the foundation depending on the desired rendering and preferences.
For a more natural result, it is advisable to affix it before its foundation, especially if you use a product with a powdery texture. If you want more coverage, concealer just do the opposite. But what technique to adopt to apply it at best?
According to Julien Michelet, the best way to proceed is to tap lightly with the finger or with the synthetic brush, directly where it is necessary. "Do not forget the inner corner of the eye, which we do not see facing our mirror and which is often poorly camouflaged when we see in profile," he says. You then fade your finger to heat the material and melt around the area to hide. For those with resistance problems, the concealer is to be powdered with an ultra-fine material. It also indicates that in the most-identified cases "a concealer can be applied very locally before the concealer."
At Estée Lauder, it is recommended to bring an orange lipstick without a mother of pearl, a concealer with good skin tone and a care around the eyes for the material is very flexible. This technique helps to neutralize dark circles that pull towards the chestnut.
Julia Knafo also recommends applying it with a concealer brush "to smooth the eye area and avoid taking too much material". The gesture to adopt: an application made with long smoothing gestures, then tap on the finger to keep the natural effect and remove the excess material.
Patrick Lorentz shares an anti-fatigue technique used at Estée Lauder since 1960. A true miracle procedure, this beauty routine, called the "3 minutes beauty", guarantees more resistance and less grip on concealer. 3 minutes! The principle is simple: it is equipped with a concealer, eye care and a brush. "We take two touches of concealer for a touch of care around the eyes that mix and then we put on each ring," details the pro.
>>> Discover our selection of the best concealer in our slideshow, above.