Mini jojoba balls, fruit cores, polyethylene grains, gel texture or cream ... As for scrubs you have the choice. Yet this act of beauty is not harmless and, misdirected, can damage the skin.

Besides, some dermatologists are violently against any mechanical scrub . Others quite for. Their advice.

Scrub: Can we do without it?

The answer is yes. A fine skin, carefully cleaned every night and morning with effective products can do without scrubs.

One can compare the skin to a house. The roof is the epidermis, the inside the dermis and the foundations the hypodermis. The "roof" becomes fragile with the years. Now the best "tarpaulin" to protect the whole house is the hydrolipidic film, made up of sebaceous secretions and dead cells. With age, the epidermis, which initially had the thickness of a sheet of blotting paper, became cigarette paper and allowed to pass in transparency all the imperfections: tasks, mini-vessels ...

If we remove 3 layers out of the 12 that a Caucasian skin contains (8 under the eyes), it takes 48 hours to the skin to reconstitute a single layer, so a week for all three layers. During this time the epidermis is actually less protected and is more sensitive to any aggression. Note: with 25 layers, the black skins are the least fragile.

The virtues of the scrub for the skin

Exfoliation removes all dead cells on the surface of the skin, which tarnish the complexion and cause irregularities in skin tone.

But it has other virtues: this deep cleaning removes toxins and other polluting particles. It allows the care that follows to better penetrate. Other less known indirect effects: by massaging it, you stimulate the microcirculation, the skin is better oxygenated, better nourished. Guaranteed good effect!

It stimulates cell renewal that tends to slow down over the years. But be careful: you will never make a scrub, even hyper soft, around the eyes, area too fine. And avoid them too during the cold: the skin is sensitized and needs all of its "layers" to protect itself.

Mechanical or enzymatic scrub to choose?

All have their interest, depending on the desired result. The most classic scrubs contain exfoliating particles.

But be careful to choose well: bad quality they can "scratch" the skin. Prefer micronized exfoliating beads , based on plum, apricot, bamboo cores (rich in silica excellent support of the skin) in jojoba, ultra soft.

Scrubs that contain AHA (fruit acids) break the bonds between the corneocytes, thus promoting desquamation without rubbing.

"I have hyperactive skin. Can I erase it?"

Yes, but with ultra-soft formulas and adapted gestures: small circular movements and no big back and forth on the whole face.

The choice of writing: Scrub Beauty, Guerlain: in a three lightweight gel texture natural acids (glycolic, lactic, citric) act synergistically to gently remove dead cells, tighten pores, sober complexion no signs of redness or discomfort. Exfoliating Jelly, BioSource by Biotherm: a texture so soft that it can be applied every day to remove impurities and gently micro-exfoliate the face.

"I have rosacea. Can I use face scrubs?"

Yes. Avoid rubbing on the wings of the nose, and where the veins are visible. Prefer the scrubs with micronized grains and soft textures.

The choice of the editorial: Ecological Surfin scrub of La Roche Posay whose delicate diatom powder is coated in a lubricated and slippery texture. Body scrub Biological Action, Saint Laurent Beauty: an iridescent gel without abrasive grains that turns into oil to gently remove dead cells.

"I have thick skin and a gray complexion. A miracle product to advise?"

Choose formulas containing plant grains and / or AHAs that refine the skin texture, but in creamy textures. Do not rub too hard: make large circular movements with your fingers.

The choice of the editor: Dermeden Exfoliating Mask for its white and green clays, detoxifying algae, which exfoliates the skin without attacking it and rid it of all its impurities. Exfoliance Clarity of Lancôme: with microbeads of white waxes, extracts of pineapple and papaya leaves a clean, toned, luminous skin.

"I have oily skin and a few pimples. What type of scrub to choose?"

The exfoliating action will be beneficial to help evacuate sebum, blackheads and other imperfections. Your ideal routine: exfoliate in small circular motions, rinse, then apply a little white clay that you will have moistened with a spray of mineral water. It will capture the excess of sebum, and the impurities nestled in the pores that it will close by its astringent action. Remove it in warm water by gently massaging.

The choice of the drafting: economical and natural, white clay surfine of Aroma-Zone, (2,50 € the 250 gr). Sisley: a creamy, silky creamy base with a blotting effect, coated with very fine grains for a soft skin and a radiant complexion. Corrective response of Matis which combines micronized corundum in a creamy cream for superficial polishing and AHAs from algae that regenerate and hydrate. Dreamskin 1 minute Dior Mask: a clever formula and a new skin effect in record time thanks to the peeling effect of glycolic acid for rapid cell regeneration combined with encapsulated light pigments that illuminate the face just in contact with the skin.

"I have acne and am under treatment"

For you, scrubs are forbidden since, as you have noticed, your skin desquamates alone under the retinoids or other anti-acne.

"I have thin, dry skin, I'm afraid of scrubs, right?"

Opt for super soft formulas, rich in oils, glycerine. Do not erase once every 15 days and then apply a moisturizer.

The choice of the editor: Gelée Fondante Exfoliante of Pure State whose gel texture turns into oil on the skin slightly moistened and whose plum core powder exfoliates without aggressing. Osmoclean d'Esthederm a cult product for 30 years; its soft creamy cream turns into an elastic texture that dislodges all the impurities without the slightest irritation. Chanel Exfoliating Scrub Gel: Its microbeads of pearl and jojoba silk remove impurities while delicate and a concentrate of orange blossom revives the radiance while soothing the skin.

Face scrub: what contraindications?

Exposed to solar exposure after a vigorous scrub, the skin is sensitized. Wait 2 to 3 days before you expose. Also know that AHA and sun do not mix. Formulas of this type are therefore to be avoided in summer.

The choice of the editor: Emulsion Exfoliante Douce, Ioma: its microsilice gently exfoliates, its burdock purifies and its Biotin (vitamin B7) avoids the sebum and comedones which risk to arise in the sun. By Terry Jelly Scrub: Its crystallized jelly turns into rinsing milk, while rose buds erode and stimulate cell renewal and their native cells activate the complexion glow.

Thanks to Aurélie Guyoux, Scientific Director of Esthederm and Pure State, and to Nina Roos, dermatologist and author of "Un skin en pleine forme" Solar Santé edition, to Philippe Simonin, skin specialist.