Olfactory memory, or when the great perfumers wake up our memories
Published on 12/16/2024 20:22
Who has never felt a strong emotion in recognizing in the street a perfume that suddenly brought up the memory of a house, a greed, a loved one? Playful decoding in six families of powerful evocative fragrances.
Cross the scent of an old lover , smell the smell of a holiday home, a childhood dish ... A smell can pick us by surprise and remind us of a situation, a place or a person who seemed buried in our memory. A mysterious phenomenon, whose writers have made their honey and madeleines, and who is a powerful ally for perfumers.
Smell, the only meaning connected directly to the brain
The explanation is scientific: the sense of smell is an immediate sense, sensitive, intimate, the only one having a direct connection to the brain. "When we smell, we breathe molecules of the air around us," says Anne Churchill, an expert neuroscientist at Givaudan, who goes through the epithelium, a space in the nasal passage where the receptor cells responsible for their detection are located. This triggers electrical signals transmitted to the olfactory bulb (above the nose) which, connected to the cortex, sends them directly into the limbic system, part of the brain governing emotions, behaviors and long-term memory. "
It is thanks to this organization of the brain that the smells can overwhelm us with emotion . "The experimental research using MRI shows that even fragrant memories are more vivid and emotional factors as images or words," she continues.
A smell linked to an association of ideas
And the stimulation of our flair begins at birth: we learn to associate certain smells with objects, places or emotions. "A newborn baby is immediately attracted by the smell of breast milk, and at a few hours he shows his preferences, turning his head, for the smells he has felt in his stomach, by feeding his mother. At two weeks, he makes the difference between the smell of milk from his own mother and that of another woman. "
Olfactory memory is more implicit than explicit. We feel without necessarily being aware of it, and to imprint, the smell must be linked to an association of ideas.
"During a meal, for example, we memorize the smell, like the taste, without realizing it, but the emotion amplifies the memory." The olfactory memories refer to very intimate moments Proustian , says Céline Manetta, doctor in psychology and researcher at IFF. It is the famous memory of Proust's madeleine, dipped in tea, on Sunday morning at his aunt's house ...
Stimulate the sense of smell to find memory
This power led to stimulate the sense of smell to find memory. "CEW's olfactory workshops (the Cosmetic Executive Women network) include the neuro-rehabilitation service of the Raymond-Poincaré Hospital in Garches, aimed at brain-injured patients after a stroke or head trauma. to elicit memories that patients could not achieve with pictures or language, and often succeeds, "she continues.
A 19-year-old amnesic patient pronounced her first word - "Prosper" - by smelling gingerbread. This method of approximations is obviously known to perfumers. Cécile Mathon, creator at Mane, says that she learned her trade by feeling the raw materials by contrasts, then by families - woody, oriental , flowery , citrus ... - immediately associating each smell with a memory.
Here again, the more intense the emotion, the better the smell is acquired, whether the memory is positive or negative. "The smell then fits effortlessly and for life, we review the situation with anecdotes around and it becomes unforgettable.I stopped the perfume for five years, none has cleared."
Test yourself with the nineteen flavors we have selected, grouped into six large families.
These oxygenated aromas of oak moss and stone express the exhilarating sensation of a long and distant journey.
The American plains In this singular floral with a mineral signature, the white cactus flower accord is associated with the creamy iris, jasmine and orange blossom. Arizona from Proenza Schouler, 89 € the 50 ml.
Cyclades This floral chypré combines mineral oakmoss, sweet mirabelle plum and bright freesia. Nomad of Chloe, 88 € the 50 ml.
Flamboyant flowers and amber woods tell the shivers, palpitations and lyricism.
The attraction To illustrate so much fervor, this bouquet of rose, jasmine and heliotrope powder is caressed with blackcurrant nectar and pear, then sprinkled with pink pepper on amber wood background. Sì Passione by Giorgio Armani, 85,40 € the 50 ml.
The embrace A perfume of fever and alcove, this heart of velvety musks is enhanced with rose and iris then wood - vetiver, cedar - and tonka bean . Eau de Parfum Red Narciso Narciso Rodriguez, 84 € the 50 ml.
Wood, cut grass, snacks and waxed floors: the old hut with repainted shutters left an indelible mark.
Sunset In this scent, the freshness of the lemon trees mingles with the warm accents of the cypresses of the undergrowth. Wood of Hadrian Annick Goutal, 102 € 50 ml.
Old books Between peonies and violets, this scent evokes leather bindings, waxed parquets, velvety papers ... Library Byredo, 160 € 100 ml.
A snack on the grass Bergamot, fresh aromatic herbs, orange blossom and musks mingle here in an elegant composition. Cologne One Sunday at the Guerlain Campaign, 160 € 250 ml.
The comforting infusion This verbena, collected in the garden, is infused with white flowers and bark of wood. Fragonard Verbena Eau de Toilette, 18 € for 50 ml.
Lily of the valley, petals and citrus evoke the season of days that finally lengthen.
The first rays Petit-grain, orange blossom and shiso leaf are warmed by a pinewood and musk accord. The Morning of the Possibles of Nuxe, 55 € the 50 ml.
Paris in may The honeysuckle and rose of this composition are brightened by violet leaf and blackcurrant on a background of cedar, benzoin and white musks. Miss Rochas Fun In Pink Eau de Toilette from Rochas, 71 € 50 ml.
The morning dew Ultra-fresh and delicate, lily of the valley and blackcurrant bud are here coated with musks. Eau de Toilette Miu Miu Eau De Toilette, 74,60 € the 50 ml.
Effluents of spray, coconut oil and hot sand are ahead of the summer and transport us to the seaside.
The return of beach This lemon cocktail, fresh pink pepper and ginger is enhanced by an ambergris accord evoking the taste of salty skin. Song of Ecstasy Collection Nina Ricci's Nina's Paradise, 85 € for 50 ml.
The Balearic Islands This solar composition magnifies the orange blossom thanks to a marine accord and almond and cactus flowers on a vanilla woody background. Spicy sun of By Terry, 175 € the 100 ml, accompanied by its vaporizer of 8.5 ml.
One evening in Tahiti Tiara flower, coconut , ylang-yang and vanilla, this pure monoï accord is a Polynesian dream. Just close your eyes. Love The Way You Feel Miami Vice Collection By Kilian, 195 € 50 ml.
Orange blossom, vanilla , almond, white musks ... These sweet and sweet notes are as regressive as they are joyful.
Sparkling sweets The thrill of ginger and the tangy sweetness of orange bitter orange are here escorted by rose, jasmine and peony on a background of vanilla and musks. Poison Girl Unexpected by Dior, 78,95 € the 50 ml.
A Malabar This chic cologne, filled with petitgrain, neroli, violet and rosemary, acts as a nod to the famous chewing gum. Sale Gosse by Fanny Bal at Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, 160 € 100 ml.
The pot glue This fragrance with almond and citrus evokes the small school. Eau de Parfum Original Beautiful Day from Castelbajac, 62,99 € 60 ml.