Caffeine, escine, red vine, ginger, quince leaf ... All these natural extracts are used in many slimming formulas. But are they effective?

Here is the answer of specialists, biologists, formulators, pharmacists who decrypt for us their mode of action.

Caffeine, star of fat eaters

This is probably the first ingredient introduced into a slimming. And one of the most active because a care Fabre laboratories, Percutafeine received thirty years ago an MA indicating that it had drug status.

How it works ? Caffeine is a lipolytic, that is, it boosts lipolysis (the destruction of fat) via a cascade of enzymatic reactions. This results in the release into the body of free fatty acids and glycerol. These fatty acids provide energy, but if they are too large they are dangerous for the membranes of our cells because they are detergents.

Nature being well done, this release of fatty acids is tightly controlled by our body which inhibits this fat melting if it is too stimulated. Another bad news: it's good to release fatty acids, but if they are not used they come back to store in our fat cells. It requires a negative energy balance (ie more calories burned than calories ingested) for the body to consume these free fatty acids. Finally a good news: it is enough to reduce by 10% its fat intake and the trick is played.

Where to find it? Almost in all formulas. Our choice of high concentration formulas: Body-Slim Slimming Cure Express, Lierac. A fast-penetrating gel texture boosted by a ginger extract. Cellu Destock Flash Serum, Vichy. Its salicylic acid facilitates its penetration and hyaluronic acid preserves the flexibility of the tissues. Slimming Firming Milk, Franck Michay, combines the overpowering of green tea caffeine with green tea floral water in a powdered formula with instant penetration.

Escine, Red Vine, Ivy: formidable draining

How it works ? It should be known that a bad circulation aggravates the greasy cellulite. It can cause edema that asphyxiates the fat cells, imprisoning them by favoring the " dimpling ". In addition, all the fatty acids released by caffeine must be evacuated by the lymph. Hence the interest of circulation at its top ... and formulas containing draining plants.

Escine, or chestnut, known for its draining and stimulating qualities promotes the resorption of swelling and the evacuation of water trapped in cellulite. The red vine, rich in flavonoids strengthens the wall of the capillaries by boosting their collagen fibers. Ivy, promotes the drainage of liquids and helps the lymphatic system to get rid of fatty acids. The soy extracts help to evacuate the polluted liquids by participating in the proper functioning of the aquaporins, these small "pipes" allowing a good evacuation of the water.

Where to find them? Escine, Pure State: a fluid, fragrance-free texture that penetrates quickly to gradually smooth the orange peel . Apply before your favorite slimming cream to optimize its results. Intraderm Cellulite, Mary Cohr, contains draining red vine extract, and cellulysium which promotes the penetration of slimming actives on the encrusted cellulite. Grapefruit Slimming Serum, Dr. Renaud, combines caffeine with soy protein and anti-inflammatory grapefruit extracts. Slim Design Night, Elancyl, offers in a creamy and melting formula a mixture of overactive caffeine and ivy that by acting on the quality of collagen promotes drainage and detoxification.

The quince leaf, a smart fat burning

How it works ? We have just discovered that there are three kinds of adipocytes, all involved in the extension of adipose tissue and the formation of cellulite.

The first are grease stores . Able to make massive reserves and multiply they maintain the vicious circle of cellulite.

The second, the fat burning adipocytes play a beneficial role by constantly burning fat to ensure the energy needs of the body. When calorie intake is equivalent to our expenses, these adipocytes do not store fat and provide the energy necessary for the proper functioning of our metabolism.

The last, adipocytes produce fibers involved in the structure of adipose tissue. Normally they make only a few fibers necessary to support the fatty tissue. But when the calorie intake is greater than the expenses nothing goes: the "storer of fat" makes zeal and capitons multiply. The "burner" lowers the arms and reduces its combustion capacity. Fats accumulate, adipose tissue thickens. Fiber producers pile up collagen fibers around adipocytes. Bad idea: the skin stiffens, it becomes sensitive to pinching. The fat mass is trapped and it becomes difficult to dislodge. Hence the interest of this new asset: the extract of quince leaves which, tests confirm, are able to direct the storage adipocytes to an activity "burns fat", to increase the work of "burners" and to boost the collagen 6 to fight against the stiffening of the elastic fibers.

Where to find it? Body Fit, Clarins: a fresh cream gel toning, which penetrates quickly and leaves a pleasant scent of hesperides. After four weeks the skin is smoother, the appearance of cellulite is reduced and the silhouette is refined.

Carnitine: an energy stack

How it works ? This molecule is an amino acid that transports the fatty acids released by caffeine to the mitochondria, the "power plants" of our cells for use as fuel. It improves the metabolism of fats. It is a source of energy for all skin cells.

Where to find it? Morpho Fitness, Esthederm, a serum that adds Caffeine and Alchemilla-Olive to its formula and transforms fat-storing cells into fat-burning. Anti bi cream of Biologique Recherche, firming (crowberry juice), draining (ivy) it refines and firms the silhouette.

Pepper, to optimize the effect of caffeine

How it works ? Whether it is pink or black it reduces the "gangue" present around the adipocytes so that they are more easily accessible to caffeine and also stimulates the micro circulation thus allowing better elimination of fatty acid waste.

Where to find it? Rose Gold, Serum Silhouette by Melvita is also rich in caffeine and rosehip oil to restore suppleness to the skin. Resurfaslim, Phytomer, encloses a creamy texture inviting a massage-peeling, the pure oil of pink pepper, and a sea sugar remodeling for a refined silhouette. Slimming Night Detox Somatoline Cosmetics benefits from night drainage to evacuate all the toxins released by its caffeine.

Ginger: a reputed anti-inflammatory

How it works ? Known for centuries in Ayurvedic medicine, this root prevents the inflammation of tissues asphyxiated by fat cells. She is the champion of the disinfiltrants. It targets tissue engorgement for light legs and fights against any watery swelling.

Where to find it? Lipogen AC, Biological Anti Cellulite Research is composed of ginger, pink pepper, and muirapuama to promote lipolysis, drain, smooth the dimpling and relieve pinch pain. Refining Oil, Sisley, overcomes swollen ankles, painful legs and thighs while nourishing the skin, bringing comfort and suppleness.

Silicon: a guarantee of firmness

How it works ? It's not all about slimming down ... the skin needs to follow! To boost its collagen and elastin fibers silicon is sovereign. It restructures the tissues by stimulating the production of collagen and elastic fibers.

Where to find it? Intelligence Fermeté, Dr. Pierre Ricaud, a whipped cream texture or mingle silicon and dill extract that help our cells to recreate elastic fibers. Me-Fairy Melt, Garancia, a crackling formula that adds to the grafted silicon, escin and mate leaves (caffeine like).

* Thanks to Dr. Philippe Allouche Director of Biological Research, Marie Hélène Lair, Director of Scientific Communication Clarins, Alain Géloën, DR at the CNRS and INSERM Lyon, Caroline Perdrix, Pierre Fabre Dermocosmetic Scientific Communication.