In France, menopause occurs, on average, at the age of 51 years.

And this great great hormonal upheaval also has its share of multiple consequences on the skin.
An observation that in recent years push the cosmetic laboratories to work on the subject in order to find remedies.

Defective Hormones and Skin

Menopause signals the cessation of estrogen secretion by our ovaries. All our skin cells have receptors on their membranes that are sensitive to hormones. And our skin, the first deficiency, is therefore the most severely affected.

The renewal at the level of the basal layer (dermo-epidermal junction) is less well and our skin is renewed less quickly.

The synthesis of our elastic fibers decreases and we then lose about 30% of our collagen the first five years of our menopause. In addition, our sebum secretion weakens and the barrier effect of our horny layer is diminished. Consequence: the skin dehydrates.

Our melanocytes work worse, or anarchically (hello the spots). Finally, the cutaneous vascularization is less well which leads to its poor oxygenation and malnutrition.

The powers of phyto-hormones to overcome hormonal deficiencies

Do not dream: they are not as effective as the medical treatment (HRT or hormone replacement therapy) that our doctor can give us. But they are safe and their effects are quite convincing.

Plants containing these phyto-hormones (isoflavones) are numerous: soya, kudzu, ginseng, Helvetia alga, hops, alfalfa, linseed. Most pro-menopause cosmetics contain it as extracts. It is up to us to consult the formula to identify them.

Targeted corrections to prevent or counter signs of age

• Against wrinkles: we boost our fibroblasts

"Retinol like" active ingredients, like vitamin A palmitate, are the best supports of our sleeping fibroblasts.

They improve the elasticity of the skin by inhibiting deleterious enzymes that degrade collagen. On the surface the micro relief of the skin is restored, the skin looks younger.

• Against the tired traits and the contours in loss of tonicity: one accelerates our turnover

In lack of hormones, our cells are renewed less quickly. Our skin is dull, sluggish.

The best cocktail to give it back energy? Ginseng and Vitamin C.

The latter is the star of good looks and anti-aging since it stimulates our metabolism and curbs the phenomena of oxidation caused by free radicals. In addition, it controls the anarchic production of melanin, hence an anti-stain action. Finally, it improves our vascular circulation to assimilate the assets that we bring to it.

• Against the embrittlement of the epidermis: hydrates and feeds

Menopause slows the production of sebum.

The hydrolipidic film that forms a protective shield on our face by ensuring good cohesion to our horny layer is failing. Result: our skin becomes dry, rough, irritable sometimes even hyper-reactive faced with the slightest climatic aggression or pollution.

To restore an effective NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), emollients (rich in ceramides) or a humectant: glycerine, vegetable oils, shea butter, aloe vera, squalane are adopted which will quickly penetrate our skin to restore lipids and hydrolipidic film.

Side hydration urea is an excellent humectant, not to mention the new star, hyaluronic acid. To choose with its three molecular weights. High-weight, it smoothes and protects the surface of the skin, medium and low weight, it sneaks in its different layers, moisturizes while stimulating the fibroblasts. Double benefit.

And, of course, we can superimpose our care to benefit from these various assets. A single imperative: apply the most fluid first, in spray for example, then a lotion, a gel, a serum or a cream. The Koreans and their layering technique do this very well.

Thanks to Lionel de Benetti, cosmetic engineer.