" Stem cell research is advancing at great speed," explains Véronique, Delvigne, Scientific Director of Lancôme International. Today, the regeneration of a living tissue can be followed in vitro! "The same progress regarding glycans, these cellular" sonotones, "or telomers , which make it possible to measure the remaining life of a cell.
Stem cells ... to the niche!
Stem cells are the stars of regenerative medicine and cosmetics. " For some time now," explains Michèle Martin, director of the L'Oréal Recherche genomics laboratory, "discoveries are multiplying about them. " They help restore hearing, treat eye diseases, neurological problems ..." In cosmetics, she continues, we know that the dermis harbors stem cells essential for the regeneration of the epidermis. But, as Michelle Rathman, a scientist at L'Oréal Recherche et Innovation, explains, " with age, they work less well. Hence the idea of energizing them by preserving an ideal environment ". It remains to choose well these "niche" protectors.
The action in depth of the longoza. " We have identified new stem cell populations with extraordinary regenerative powers," explains Édouard Mauvais-Jarvis, director of scientific communication for Christian Dior. No question of manipulating them but optimizing their natural functioning . Thus, at the level of the hypodermis, Secale c. (a molecule extracted from rye) promotes the differentiation of stem cells into contractile fibroblasts. " True foundations, these last cross the skin, from the depth to the surface. The longoza stimulates the production of collagen, elastin ... In the epidermis, a vitamin E derivative (TP VitylTM) protects the stem cells from aggressions, and the rice extract facilitates the cell divisions. The epidermis, regenerated, increases in density. Day after day, the skin unfolds, expands, regains volume and holds, "assures Édouard Mauvais-Jarvis. To discover in the new line Capture Totale MultiPerfection (Cream, Concentrate, Skin Care and Complexion Serum) by Christian Dior.
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> Another niche protector, the white iris, a remarkable restructuring of the dermo-epidermal junction, in the new Absolute, reformulated and enriched line, and white jasmine, inimitable in the Absolute Precious Cells line to repair the damage caused by UV at Lancôme .
> SVR's Anti-Aging Serum apple extracts offer unique protection for epidermal stem cells against all stresses.
Telomers that do not fray any more
" The chromosomes end at each end with two arms containing the DNA: these are the telomeres, necessary for the complete replication of the genes, " explains Dr. Antoine Lorcy, an anti-aging specialist. But these telomers shorten with the years, "fray" and lead to the aging of the cell, and therefore the organs . " Scientists are now looking for assets that can protect these telomeres, in order to slow cell senescence ," says Lionel Laffon, international marketing director at Lierac.
The white water lily, the active ingredient that protects DNA. " We have formulated a Bio-Sève MolecularTM containing white water lily extracts to protect the skin, Senna alata, DNA guard, associated with pro-xylan, and other botanical extracts that act synergistically to preserve telomeres " , explains Christiane Montastier, scientific director at Helena Rubinstein. Conclusive results with immediate effect on tonicity, and enhanced performance over time (20% wrinkles and 24% of their length in four weeks). Prodigy Night by Helena Rubinstein.
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> The silk tree extract, which watches over the telomere and restores all its energy to the skin: Orlane Absolute Anti-Fatigue Sublimation Treatment .
> The scutellary of Lake Baikal also avoids the wear of telomeres. The skin is revitalized for a long time: Extreme Regenerating Serum, Lierac Premium Anti-Aging.
Glycans, hearing aid of cells
" These sugars allow cells to communicate with each other through specific receptors that sit on the surface of keratinocytes, melanocytes and fibroblasts," explains Dr. Bruno A. Bernard, L'Oréal research fellow within L'Oréal Research . Glycans can be compared to the hearing instrument of the deaf. As the batteries age, the batteries wear out, the messages are not working, the cells are isolated and weakened. If the batteries are changed, they can do their work efficiently again. "
Prunus, to erase stains. At Yves Saint Laurent, researchers have just discovered glycans capable of short-circuiting the receptors involved in skin pigmentation: an extract of prunus inhibits the accumulation of melanin grains, limiting the delivery of melanosomes to the skin. keratinocytes. The spots disappear, leaving a perfectly homogeneous complexion. Coming in March 2013, Forever Light Creator by Yves Saint Laurent. And, in the meantime, to complete the Forever Youth Liberator range, a Night Cream combines a novel glycane that responds to the skin's nocturnal needs (accelerated regeneration, prevention of edema and pockets ...).
VB likes it too. NovaxylineTM, which stimulates glycosaminoglycans, ideally boosts hyaluronic acid and collagen: NovExpert Anti-Age range .
Plant glycans for perfect skin
Faithful to its phytotherapeutic vocation and convinced of the efficacy of plants, Sisley uses the glycans contained in certain species to get the message across the cells. Example in its latest global care for an ideal skin. " It is not only at puberty that the pores cluttered with sebum are visible," explains José Ginestar, Scientific Director at Sisley. With age, they become deformed due to the slackening of the skin and the accumulation of cells that stiffen their walls. " Well chosen plants restore communication between cells for good renewal. Java tea extract reduces sebum; that of the green lens restores a good differentiation of the cells; extracts of soy and white willow optimize the synthesis of elastic fibers. In the end, in less than a month, a grain of skin refined, pores almost invisible. Used as a serum, once or twice a day, alone or under the usual care, it metamorphoses the epidermis, which regains freshness and radiance. Pore Minimizer, Global Perfect from Sisley.
