In France, a healing cream based on hyaluronic acid used as an anti-aging care makes a huge buzz. This simple formula, Ialucet, sold in pharmacy (about 10 €), would it be as effective as an anti-aging cream?

"The reconciliation between the healing and rejuvenating formulas is not absurd. There are assets that fulfill the same missions: protect, hydrate, soothe and stimulate. And above all, to reconstruct the skin, "explains Agnès Gougerot, dermatologist at Hormeta Laboratories. Corinne Déchelette, Head of Strategic and Prospective Supervision at Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetics explains: "At first glance, there is an obvious relationship between the process of healing and that of rejuvenation. In aesthetic medicine, the anti-aging laser of the dermatologist creates a burn to cause scarring. Just like the technique of roller with micro-needles that one passes on the skin and which generates micro-wounds to generate a repair. "

"The wrinkle is neither an injury nor an injury"

To rejuvenate, many dermatological acts are aggressions that force the skin to defend itself and thus to produce more collagen in order to heal. The post-act creams, called cicatrizing creams, optimize this process. But only because there was break-in and therefore loss of matter.

This is not the case for healthy skin that simply undergoes aging due to years. All the difference is there. "The wrinkle is neither a lesion nor an injury," explains Nuria Perez-Cullell, director of the Avène brand, but a normal biological phenomenon.

A healing treatment moisturizes and protects only

Hence the differences in the composition of the creams. Let us take the example of hyaluronic acid, often present in these two types of creams. In large molecules in healing creams, it remains on the surface of the skin to offer optimal hydration in order to close the wound, also causing a superficial and ephemeral smoothing of the fine lines. This explains the success of Ialucet, which plumps the skin for a few hours.

In small molecules in anti-aging creams, hyaluronic acid crosses the horny layer to stimulate fibroblasts, boost fiber production and restructure the skin from the inside in the long run. Two different but complementary actions that can be found in certain anti-aging treatments such as HORMETA's Re-Generation Hormegold serum.

A cicatrizing care will therefore be limited solely to a moisturizing and protective action on a healthy skin. While an anti-aging treatment, equipped with many active anti-aging, will have in addition anti-wrinkle action, anti-release, anti-stain ... To you to choose knowingly.

Luc Manago.

Above: Cream Ialucet from Laboratoires Genevrier, 10,50 €. Cicaplast Baume B5 from La Roche Posay, 11,60 €. Bioderma Cream Soothing Cream Cicabio Cream, 13 €. Dermalibour from A-Derma, € 8.30. A-Derma AH Duo Epithelial Cream, 12,50 €. Emulsion Restorative Cicalfate of Avène, 8,30 €.