As often happens, the activity of one substance may hide another, or even several. At the beginning of this cosmetic soap opera, the treatment of acne with the acid form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. This irritating drug (the skin that reddens and peels) exfoliates to unclog pores, regulates the thickness of the stratum corneum and reduces the size of the sebaceous gland, thus the flow of sebum.
But, scoop, the professor specialist Albert Kligman observes a slight anti-aging effect after a month with blatant results at the end of the third. Finally a substance that reverses the effects of time on the skin, especially on aging due to the sun: dryness, loss of elasticity, refinement and wrinkles. The problem ? This acid is badly supported by the finest, dry, sensitive and mature skin.
The virtues of retinol
Cosmetologists then turn to a softer form, the famous retinol derived from carotene. A precursor of vitamin A acid, it is the skin that converts it into the super-active acid form. "It's a recognized background molecule. It speaks to the nucleus of the cell thanks to the membrane receptors which themselves ensure its penetration into the cell, " explains Anne Clément, scientific director of Dr. Pierre Ricaud. It improves cell renewal, revives the manufacture of collagen and other dermal molecules, including hyaluronic acid and elastin. It strengthens the skin's immune system and regulates the melanocytes that cause pigmentary spots. All these actions are scientifically proven. In summary, it smooths the skin and stimulates the luster, thickens the stratum corneum which becomes firmer, uniformizes the complexion. Excellent anti-wrinkle, it tones the tissues provided to persevere (three months of minimum use).
Softer
In order to compensate for its instability in light and oxygen and its excessively desquamating action, the Pierre Fabre laboratories began to rely on an exclusive form - retinaldehyde - which transforms itself into acid vitamin A in contact with the skin without the saturate and therefore without irritating it. Hence the success of Ysthéal d'Avène from its launch in 1994. This home-made retinal aldehyde is now combined with hyaluronic acid and an extract of brown algae in Physio-lift. The Revitalift range of L'Oréal Paris has been an undeniable reference for more than twenty years worldwide and will shortly offer an immediate tightening effect.
Better tolerated
It is reworked to associate with other assets to compensate and complete its actions, integrated in high-tech textures to achieve a concentration of 0.3% which guarantees the tolerance of hypersensitive skin. It is preferably used at night, as it degrades during the day under UV rays (hence the source of irritation). The trick: apply over a high UV protection in the day. As for the right strategy, use the product two to three times the first week and go crescendo the second and third to get used to the skin. "Gold standard dermatology is a real molecule that works and that women know and recognize," concludes Elisabeth Bouhadana, scientific director of L'Oréal Paris.
Our selection: Anti-wrinkle cream Ysthéal d'Avène, 25,50 €. Liftactiv Technology Derme Source Advanced from Vichy, 35 €. La Roche-Posay Redermic R Intensive Dermatological Corrector Concentrate, 33 €. Retinol 0.3 from SkinCeuticals, 88 €. Specilift from SVR, € 22. StriVectin-AR Intense Retinol Night Care, 92 €. Ruby Crystal Retinol Hydracrème Glow by Dr. Brandt, 65,50 €. Cure Intensive Supremage by Dr. Pierre Ricaud, 29 € (introductory price).
