In addition to moisturizing molecules, any skin care product should have an effective anti-radical effect, "says Lionel de Benetti, cosmetic consultant. A message received five out of five by laboratories, as evidenced by the new formulas that currently appear. " Anti-RLs could be compared to antibiotics ," says Caroline Debbasch, director of scientific communications for Clarins. The latter have a more or less wide range of antibacterial action and often have to be combined. Same thing for antioxidants: some fight some free radicals while others neutralize different. The ideal is to combine them in order to maximize their effectiveness. "
Radicals: Shock Trio at SkinCeuticals
"Our care has long been associated with vitamin C and vitamin E," says Frédérique Gente, SkinCeuticals' training director. Then we added to the formula a plant anti-RL, ferulic acid (derived from the bran of wheat), which multiplied by eight the photoprotection of the skin. Now, a new plant anti-RL, phloretin, polyphenol from the skin of the apple, allows us to formulate a broad spectrum antioxidant, improving penetration of other molecules, promoting cell turnover and limiting production of melanin for an anti-stain effect. Within a few weeks, we will even offer a serum-gel texture concentrated with 10% vitamin C. "Studies show that the skin is thus much more resistant to environmental aggressions (pollution, stress, UVA, UVB, etc.) , and can also fight against its relaxation by boosting the elastic fibers of the epidermis.
VB likes it. Phloretin CF Gel from SkinCeuticals.
Free Radicals: The powers of brown algae at NovExpert
"Novaxylin, obtained by extracting a Breton brown seaweed associated with sugars (including rhamnose), is proving to be one of the most effective antioxidants," said Jacques Leclere, expert in herbal medicine and skin biology of NovExpert. It is a gifted person capable of sorting between useful and dangerous free radicals. "Some are necessary for human metabolism," he says (see box). If novaxylin interrupts the cascade of oxidants by stopping the deleterious chain reaction, it can remain inactive on an uninfected epidermis. It only intervenes in case of excess of free radicals. » Anti-Aging Cream Expert defuses 70% of free radicals, protects stem cells and reactivates genes of cell longevity (sirtuins). In less than a month, the skin, plumped, regains its radiance.
VB likes it. NovExpert Expert Anti-Aging Cream.
Free radicals: Flavonoids to the rescue at L'Oréal Paris
"Over the years, the skin defends less well against oxidative stress, which causes it to age prematurely," explains Élisabeth Bouhadana, director of scientific communication skincare of L'Oréal Paris International. The brand's latest care is based on an unprecedented combination of flavonoids (high-performance antioxidants) to protect cell membranes, their cytoplasm and their nuclei. "NateciumTM DHC is a derivative of hesperidin, extracted from the bitter orange peel," she says. It protects our mother cells, extremely important since they guarantee the quality of the skin. "Combined with Vitallin (Vigna aconitifolia), an Indian plant that boosts tonicity, Natecium TM DHC accelerates cell turnover and regeneration. "This formula strengthens the cell's natural membrane defenses by 31% and DNA protection by 39%," explains Élisabeth Bouhadana. As early as two weeks, the skin is regenerated, plumped, and more homogeneous.
VB likes it. The Age Perfect line, Cellular Renaissance: Regenerating Day Basic Regeneration, Night Care and Golden Serum High Regeneration L'Érépe Éprat L'Oréal Paris.
Free radicals: the best anti-wrinkle molecules at Caudalie
"This new formula concentrates sixteen years of work with Professor Vercauteren," says Mathilde Thomas, founder and president of Caudalie. We put the best anti-wrinkle molecules in the best concentrations. The action of resveratrol is superboosed by an extract of oleic acid that improves communication between cells. It has an incomparable efficacy and bioavailability: it activates cell renewal, stimulates the production of collagen and elastin and now also fight against glycation. Added to this is the concentrated viniferin 8 (extracted from the sap of the vine shoots, it corrects the brown spots, prevents their appearance and restores the radiance of the complexion) as well as grape seed polyphenols. "These are the most potent antioxidants in the plant world," explains Mathilde Thomas. These three exceptional ingredients achieve the most effective antioxidant shields, thanks to their synergy which multiplies their power. They are associated with ten other active ingredients (moisturizing, nourishing, anti-wrinkle, firming ...). Premier Cru is thus a convincing care on all the signs of age. Day after day, the skin regenerates from the inside. It is, in less than a month, denser, smoother, firmer, and cooler.
VB likes it. The Premier Cru line: Cream and Eye Cream from Caudalie.
The Parodox of Free Radicals
"Free radicals are well known to degrade all functions of the body," says Lionel de Benetti, cosmetic consultant. There are two ways to fight them. Either I stimulate my natural defenses (SOD, glutathione, catalase) with active ingredients like resveratrol, or I bring them antioxidant substances that can give them their missing electron without becoming aggressive (vitamin C, for example). But, be careful, some of these free radicals are useful. They serve as "garbage collectors", destroying impaired molecules that clutter the body. So it's a matter of balance.
