Tobacco = shot of firedamp
To smoke a cigarette, it's a bit like a pollution shoot condensed over three minutes. Heavy metals, tar, benzene, carbon, ammonia and even acetone: they are tracked in colorings or nail polish but they are sucked without thinking ... The time to crush his cigarette butt and 3,500 chemical components have already clumped together on the face.
What is happening ? In the course of the cigarettes, the complexion becomes duller, as if a gray veil had settled on it and stifled it. Above all, these substances generate free radicals. These famous small molecules very energetic that accelerate the aging skin and that our mothers try to eliminate with great reinforcement of antioxidant creams. They are mostly very unstable molecules acting a bit like pinballs that would de-zest everything in their path: the collagen and elastin fibers (guaranty of a plumpy skin) but also the membrane and the nucleus (in fact, DNA) cells. Deep damage that can be seen outside because in addition to a leaded mine, smokers also have a thinner skin, more brittle because less rich in collagen and elastin. To top it off, small black spots appear around the eyes and early fine lines around the mouth.
The feint? There's none; you must stop, no! It's hard ? The generalist, the tobacco specialist, maybe the psychologist, can only help you find the keys (the famous motivation!). They will be able to prescribe patches, substitutes or calming herbal teas if necessary.
The cosmeto allies? The antioxidant active agents trapping free radicals such as vitamin C (stabilized and therefore more effective in Filorga Skin Perfusion Skin Serum, which acts as a backlight on the complexion), resveratrol (Caudalie IP10 Vinexpert Fluid, the pearly texture reflects light), flavonoids (Esthederm's Time Technology cream combines antioxidants and golden and purple pearlescent for shine). One can make the complexion pink with the technique of "hot-cold" by massaging regularly his face with a small spoon cooled in the refrigerator. Programmed for homeostasis (especially temperature balance), the skin will call the hot and therefore the blood, which will oxygenate the tissues and eliminate, as a purification station, the toxins.
Alcohol = red alert
Certainly, these are not these few glasses that will turn you into reddish alcoholic (though ...). But the figures speak for themselves: According to the National Institute of Health and Medical Research (INSERM), in France, 80% of the 17-year-olds surveyed say they have consumed it during the last thirty days. By practicing binge drinking (reaching intoxication as quickly as possible), one risks an impact on emotions, anxiety and mood. But more seriously: seven young people aged between 18 and 24 each year lose their lives on the roads in an alcohol-related accident and more than twenty-seven are injured. It makes you think...
What is happening ? The vessels dilate at the cheeks, wings of the nose, forehead and chin. If the skin is sensitive, it will first pull, tingle, warm up. Then the transient redness can, during the evenings too watered, form real red plates and draw small filaments pink in transparency. And that is how one gets spoiled for a few glasses too! Also note that alcohol has a dehydrating effect since it increases the temperature of the body and, consequently, the perspiration (thus the loss of water).
The feint? No more, no escape! Reducing its consumption is mandatory not only for the skin, but for general health.
The cosmeto allies? If the evil is done (but you are only at the beginning and there is awareness), bet on the anti-redness assets that strengthen the walls of the vessels: rutin (Rutin Active Pure A42 d Pure Condition), ruscus extract (the entire range Avène Antirougeurs) or even the Rosactiv® complex of Bioderma whose BB Cream Créaline AR blends the small flushes on the face.
White nights = green complexion
Sessions examinations and exits in a box rhyme with hollowed face, puffy eyes or blurred complexion , when not all three at once. Gloups!
What is happening ? The epidermis is subjected to a very precise rhythm: the day, it fights against the aggressions, at night, it is repaired. And the shorter it is, the less it regenerates itself. Simple but logical. Like the body which, in lack of rest, alternates between pump and euphoria period (even tachycardia), the skin is disrupted when it is tired. In addition to the small symptoms "dirty head", it can, for example, increase its temperature without warning, which occasionally leads to peaks of sebum and the wagon of buttons that goes with ...
The feint? Stabilize the skin by first trying to catch up on sleep, while offering the best conditions for it to recover faster. Whether one goes to bed at one or five, no question of zap removing makeup!
The cosmeto allies? When the skin tends to get a bit greasy the day after a sleepless night, you just tap it with a little Japanese paper (like those of Paul & Joe in their sexy case) rather than inflicting an aggressive cleaning or scrub which will only further disrupt it. And above all, it goes soft on the make-up : never foundation (needless to take the risk that it flows because of too much sebum), just a tip of pink lipstick and mascara to refresh the pace.
Junk food = rides galore
Chips, sodas (light or not), frozen, prepared meals, chocolate bars, spread ... Too greasy, too sweet, too salty. But what you forget to say is that outside the pounds, this hyper caloric diet accelerates the aging of the skin and making caramelize the fibers.
What is happening ? The collagen reacts with the overflow of sugar in circulation, which causes stiffening of the dermis, and the appearance of fine lines. In short, instead of having the first one at 30 years old, you will get it at 25! Another effect, immediately this one, the loss of luminosity of the complexion, as if the skin was opacified. More technical, but very simple to understand, these bad eating habits bring too much omega 6 but not enough 3, those same ones that have anti-inflammatory properties (anti-pimples, anti-wrinkles, "anti-all" in fact ...) and moisturizing. Note: Like the abuse of junk food, too drastic diets can put the skin to strain. Deprived of vitamins, trace elements, amino acids or essential fatty acids, it dries, dehydrates. The nails and hair become brittle. And if you lose weight too suddenly, the epidermis can become flabby and mollasson, a little like if you were 50 years old ... Except that you have 25!
The feint? It is balanced by dropping its hamburger for a fish of the cold seas (wild salmon, sardines, anchovies ...) and the chips (stuffed with trans fatty acids, palm oil and other toxic fats) are replaced by oilseeds (almonds, walnuts ...) all sources of omega 3. A small cure of food supplements will give a blow to the body (Solgar Omega-3 capsules).
The cosmeto allies? It is the flavonoids (again them) that will prevent the phenomenon of glycation and decrease the olive color of the complexion. To increase its pink component, the formulas based on green tea, resveratrol, red vine, cocoa, maté or grape are tracked: the BB Creme Idéalia de Vichy has the double advantage of acting on the surface with pigment corrective rosé and in depth with its active, kombucha, which decreases the percentage of proteins of the skin that have been glycated; Garnier's Dull and Fatigued Skin Bitter Cream, with hibiscus flower extract that gives a fresh touch.
Our thanks to Dr Naïma Midoun, dermatologist in Paris.
Sun = danger
OK the spring was super rotten! OK, the holidays are over or almost ... But was it really worth going to expose for hours and hours in the middle of the dungeon? The sunburn, at the moment (it is) hurts and, once we have well peeled, we forget. Except in depth, it's a whole different story.
What is happening ? UVA generates free radicals which, again, break the fibers of collagen and elastin, and attack the cells. If we continue at this rate, we may face the same problems of premature aging as our mothers (or rather the mothers of our friends ...): brown spots and parchment skin. But for now, we are still more concerned about the dull appearance that took the tan on holiday: to defend itself from the rays, the epidermis has slightly thickened (which saved us from the l acne, since this point barrier also prevented the sebum tropplein from flowing). As soon as you go back to school, you are complaining about the lemon yellow skin effect of the skin (dermatos call it citrine skin) and a good acne attack in retaliation (yes, it is the rebound effect ).
The feint? Consult his dermato, history of "checker" the moles. He alone can detect suspicious lesions such as basal cell carcinomas (skin cancers due to excessive sunlight) or melanoma (other melanocytic tumors). Rare at 25 years but cropping is always useful and reassuring.
The cosmeto allies? To recover a radiant complexion, one opts for gentle scrubs with AHA or glycolic acid to eliminate both the dead cells (responsible for the greyish veil on the tan) and the small buttons without irritating them. Practices, these enzymatic (and not mechanical) formulas do not need to be massaged to "nibble" imperfections, they are applied, they work. Too easy ! (NovExpert Expert Mask and Scrub Exfoliator). They also exist in the form of a lotion to be used every evening to reveal the radiance of tanning (Lotion PhytoPeeling of the Five Worlds). And above all, it is hydrated to death with light and melting creams (Moisturizing HydraContinue Hydrating Flash, Lierac Rebalancing Soothing Comfort Cream).
Express make-up removal
Even if you go to bed late, you have to find the strength to remove makeup, to rid your skin of all pollution and toxins. Needless to draw the fastidious duo milk tonic, a few micellar water cottons will suffice: Arctic Cotton Crystalline Water Ice Polish detoxifies, that of L'Oréal Paris, baptized Absolue Douceur, is allied with dry skins. And if you want to avoid dark circles, you can also apply a sun care just before going to sleep. This is the creed of the new Supremÿa Eyes The Night of Sisley, which limits, among other things, fatty deposits during sleep (to prick his mother ... who sleeps surely at that time!).