Rajasthan: a name that resounds like a tale of the Arabian Nights, with its palaces, temples and other architectural treasures. Wonders that tell the story of this region of the northwest of the country through the Rajputs, Mughals and British settlers. Here, golden India borders an overpopulated India in perpetual effervescence, high in color and scent.

Rajasthan: marvel at Jaipur

The carriage drawn by two horses stops in front of the Rambagh Palace , surrounded by nineteen hectares of landscaped gardens. At the top of the steps, a young Indian woman places between my eyebrows a point of red kumkum powder. It is the famous bindi that symbolizes the third eye. Then, adorned with a necklace of jasmine, I am my butler through the corridors of this former residence of the maharaja of Jaipur, Man Singh, and his wife, Gayatri Devi. Transformed into a luxurious hotel, the palace has ninety suites and rooms with opulent decoration: rich curtains, antique furniture, canopy beds, hand painted wall motifs, marble bathrooms. Everything evokes the splendor of the princely life of yesteryear ... in perfect symbiosis with flat screens, Wi-Fi and air conditioning.

Maintain its "Jiva" (life force) at the Rambagh Palace in Jaipur

Rajasthan: maintaining the life force

At the end of the park, in a haven of greenery, here is the Jiva Spa with its imposing indoor swimming pool , designed for the Mahayani Gayatri, and its two luxurious tents. They recall the sumptuous encampments in which the Mughal emperors lodged during the military campaigns, in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Shirish Gupta, the spa manager, explains that the care provided here is based on a thousand-year-old tradition of well-being and is inspired by curative therapies that are an integral part of the spirituality of the country. They are meant to maintain the jiva (or life force) using natural products made from herbs, essential oils and typically Indian ingredients. "We believe in the adage:" Atithi devo bhava "[The host is a personification of God]," he said. Moreover, before each treatment, the therapist meditates for a short time to connect to the good vibrations.

Rajasthan: the power of stones

After the immutable welcome ritual, the namaste ("I bend before you", in Sanskrit), head down and hands joined, Dolkar offers me organic detoxifying tea based on lime, basil and jaggery (complete sugar ) and made me take a foot bath flavored with an ashwagandha mixture (Indian ginseng), eucalyptus, ginger and rose petals. I then lie down on my stomach, facing a few peridots (energizing and purifying green stones), for the Vishrama treatment (120 min, Rs 11,000, 160 €), a deep modeling to alleviate my dorsal contractions. With an oil composed of Indian plants, including ashwagandha, palmarosa (large herb that promotes psychic relaxation) and amla (currant fruit that helps to relax the body and the mind), she masses me for a long time insisting on the trapezes. Movements are slow, strong pressure to reach the deep layers of the muscles . Then she unwraps the tensions with hot pancakes containing salt, minerals crushed and endemic herbs, including the unavoidable ashwagandha. After care, I savor these moments of "zenitude" on a daybed posed in full greenery, amused by the spectacle of a peacock in freedom that makes the wheel.

The precious stones, the ratna, made the notoriety of Jaipur. According to a legend, they would have been created by Shiva at the request of his wife Parvati to cure diseases. Rambagh Palace is a spa resort with a gemological experience. Drawing on the energy released by the ratna and on dowsing, using a crystal pendulum to interpret the vibrations of the objects, Dr. Chauhan diagnoses the negative energies and helps to restore balance by l use of stones, aromatherapy and acupressure (consultation by appointment, 75 min, Rs 4,500, 65 €). Completely bluffing!

Later, I find Nungi under a gazebo for the Pada Snana (75 min, Rs 1,965, 29 €), a revitalizing foot care. A classic protocol with seaweed scrub, salt and jojoba oil, followed by a nourishing mask made of incense, jasmine and cedar wood. While Nungi applies a red veneer Keys To My Karma (OPI), a musician plays the santoor at the edge of a basin studded with water lilies.

Rajasthan: gliding in Jodhpur

On the heights of the capital of the desert, the palace of Umaid Bhawan

Next step, Jodhpur, where a turbaned driver is waiting for me at the airport to take me on board an authentic Cadillac of the thirties to the palace of Umaid Bhawan, also converted into a hotel. Perched on the heights of the desert capital, it is one of the largest residences in the world. The maharaja Gaj Singh II still occupies the zenana, the wing formerly reserved for the women of the court. In 1929, his grandfather, Umaid Singh, built this splendid monument to give work to the people struck by drought and famine. In fifteen years, three thousand workers have built this edifice of ocher sandstone and marble which has three hundred and forty-seven rooms. A real giant construction game (each block was carved to be adjusted without mortar) designed by the British architect Henry Lanchester, which combines Art Deco and Asian style. The majesty of the place subjugates, in particular the spectacular rotunda with a cupola more than thirty-two meters high. Sixty-four rooms and suites are equipped with the latest technological innovations.

Rajasthan: a divine fragrant massage

Go to the spa with Sandipa for a facial. For my mixed skin, she advises me Champak (60 min, Rs 2,800, 40 €). The whole protocol has the same ingredients: magnolia, lavender and jasmine. Cleansing, neck and shoulder massage, scrub, mask. During the laying, massage the feet with a jasmine and palmarosa oil, then the head (without oil). The treatment ends with the application of a creamy tensor serum, which requires to avoid the sun in the hours that follow.

I chains with the Hast Snana (60 min, Rs 1,670, 24 €). It is a classic revitalizing hand care, with exfoliation of Ayurvedic plants (chitrak, bibhitaki, man-jishtha) and sea salt, then a mask composed of white clay, kiwi extract and rose oil. In final touch on my nails, again the red Keys To My Karma. Here I am in beauty for an Indian dinner under the pavilion of white marble Baradari, set up in the beautiful garden.

The next day, a yoga session at sunrise in the garden is the opportunity to learn about relaxation techniques, asanas and other breathing exercises. Then head for the Blue City to stroll through its medieval streets wrapped in incense, roses and ... sewers.

Rajasthan: dreaming of mythical Udaipur

All in white marble, the Taj Lake Palace finds an echo to its splendor on the surface of the waves.

At 45 minutes flight from Jodhpur, Udaipur La Blanche is one of the most beautiful natural scenery of Rajasthan, encamped between the Aravalli Mountains and the shores of Lake Pichola. The wonder is even greater when the timeless white marble building appears on the surface of the waves, the mythical Taj Lake Palace . Built in 1754 to serve as a summer residence in the Maharana Jagat Singh II (title given to a great warrior, as opposed to the maharaja, meaning great king), it embodies the glory of the Rajput Era.

Rajasthan: a beauty ritual in the spa boat

I accosted on the island of Jag Niwas under a shower of rose petals, greeted by a butler in traditional costume. Arcade galleries and corridors orchestrated around patios and a lotus pond, where a scene of the James Bond Octopussy was shot, lead to the eighty-one rooms and suites. They are all dressed in luxurious silk fabrics, enhanced with carved wooden furniture.

In order to better discover the customs of the ancient kingdom of Mewar, I forget the small spa, next to the shaded swimming pool, for the Spa Boat. It perpetuates the tradition of the ceremonial barges of yesteryear, on which the future bride of royal blood was conducted before her nuptials. For the ritual Mehwar Khas (90 min, Rs 5,820, 85 €), Dhunkyi first offers me a bath of flowers in the Jacuzzi on the teak deck, then a break in the small hammam arranged next to the double cabin. Purpose: to prepare my skin with the sandalwood, turmeric, neem (Indian Neem) scrub. While these ingredients diffuse their benefits, she massages the scalp by pressing the acupressure points with a mixing magnolia, amla and jatamansi oil (a rare Himalayan plant). After the shower, follow the relaxing massage with a mixture of oils of ashwagandha, kewda (Pandanus odoratissimus), rosewood and incense. It lingers in turn on the ankles, wrists and trapezes. The treatment ends with a facial massage with a jasmine oil. Totally relaxed, skin as soft as that of a baby, I relax on the deck, rocked by the lapping of the water, enjoying a plate of fresh fruit accompanied by a mango juice.

Rajasthan: light and serene like a maharani

The next day, I test Prithvi Mrit, "the Nectar of the Earth" (45 min, Rs 2,545, 37 €), a nourishing and detoxifying wrap made from clay and twenty-two Indian plants nagarmotha, manjishta, neem, sandalwood, saffron, cinnamon ...). The result is glowing skin and an impression of lightness. After a romantic cruise on the lake sparkling under the last rays of the sun, a gastronomic dinner awaits me at Neel Kamal.

The next day, at the first light of dawn, a last yoga session on the roof terrace gives me a feeling of appeasement, eyes filled with images of sumptuous palaces. Serene as a maharani.

A party of polo on elephants in festive dress, followed by a
dinner of Maharaja, a rain of stars.

Rajasthan: good to know

Formalities: The visa application is part of the journey of the combatant. Better to follow the procedure to the letter (on the Internet) so as not to waste too much time.

Airlines: no direct connection between France and Rajasthan. Mandatory stop in Delhi or Mumbai. The plane is the fastest way to connect the different stages. The sense of the visit may vary according to availabilities.

Tourism: in Jaipur, the old city painted in pink, in 1876, for the arrival of the future king Edward VII, the museum of the City Palace and the Palace of the Winds. In Jodhpur, the fort of Meherangarh. In Udaipur, the City Palace Museum.

Shopping: in Jaipur, Anokhi, trendy clothing store and organic linen. Fabindia, textiles less chic and very affordable. Gem Palace, very beautiful jewelry including some overpriced. And, everywhere, saris, pashminas and spices

Rajasthan in practice:

Getting there: package eight nights / ten days from 5298 € per person, from September to December, including flights with Air France Paris-Delhi and Mumbai-Paris, domestic flights on Air India and Jet Airways, the drive transfers a visa fee, one night on arrival at the Taj Mahal in Delhi, two nights in each of the TAJ hotels quoted in our subject, one night before departure to Mumbai Taj Mahal in double room and breakfast, Half-day private car tours with a French speaking guide. Individual program à la carte. Extra night per person: 422 € in Jaipur, 391 € in Jodhpur, 422 € in Udaipur.

Reservations: Kuoni, tel. 0820 300 384, www.kuoni.fr